Esterhazy Marriage Collar

This elegant, jeweled wedding collar (incomplete) was reputedly worn by the scion of a powerful Hungarian noble family allied with the Habsburgs, Palatine Miklos Esterhazy, at his wedding in 1611. The design evokes a stylized flower garland interspersed with references to love and marriage, including right hands clasped around a heart (union based on good faith and love), doves (affection), cornucopias (prosperity), and forget-me-nots (loyalty). Such a piece of ritual jewelry could be valued as a striking symbol of the fundamental importance of marital alliances to the Habsburgs.

The associated ornament has two hooks on the back for fastening it to clothing.

Provenance

Provenance (from the French provenir, 'to come from/forth') is the chronology of the ownership, custody, or location of a historical object. Learn more about provenance at the Walters.

Collection of the Counts Esterhazy. Purchased by Bishop Sigmund Bubics (Zsigmond Bubics) of Kaschau (Košice), likely before 1906 [date and mode of acquisition unknown]. With Jacques Seligmann, Paris, by 1923 [date and mode of acquisition unknown]; purchased by Henry Walters, New York, 1923 [1]; inherited by Sarah Wharton Green Walters (Mrs. Henry Walters), New York, 1931; Sale, Parke-Bernet Galleries, New York, 2 May 1941, no. 1289 [2]; purchased by the Walters Art Museum, 1941.

[1]. Archives of American Art, Jacques Seligmann & Co. records, box 310, folder 1: Invoices, 1923 January-1925 December: Purchase invoice dated June 4, 1923, from Jacques Seligmann, Paris, to Henry Walters Esq., including “4653 A wonderful knight’s enamelled gold necklace composed of nine ornamental motives and five big pendeloques adorned with coloured stones and pearls, of the 16th century. Comes from the Family ESTERHAZY in which Family it remained a certain time. It then became the property of the Bishop of KASCHAU called SIGMUND BUBICH, a very old and weak-minded man who sold this marvellous piece of jewelry to dealers in GERMANY.”

[2]. Parke-Bernet Galleries, New York, “Art Collection of Mrs Henry Walters,” sale cat., 23-26 and 30 April and 1-3 May 1941, lot 1289: “Wrought Gold and Enamel Necklace, Set with Pearls, Diamonds, and Other Pecious [sic] Stones, South German, XVI Century….[Provenance:] From the family of the Prince Esterhazy of Hungary, Collection of Sigmund Bubich, Bishop of Kaschau, From Jacques Seligmann, Paris.”